Archive for the ‘Retouching and Image Enhancement’ Category

USING NIKON CAPTURE NX2 FOR BOLD COLOR EFFECTS

Thursday, August 5th, 2010

Some great photographs are the result of being in the right place at the right time but most are the product of a preconceived idea and the forethought necessary to execute that idea with the right tools and timing.  I’m going to share one such image here along with the thought and execution processes that made this image a reality.

I spotted this location on the North Fork of Long Island awhile back.  The vintage truck, parked in the middle of a cow pasture, looked rather drab at mid day in overcast weather, but I knew that it would have potential to be an extraordinary prop at a later time.  I recently had the opportunity to return to this location with one of my wedding couples so I chose a time just before sunset with the low directional late day sunlight falling on the scene.

I positioned my subjects next to the truck so that the falling sun, at a 90 degree angle, would create a dramatic split light on their faces.  Using a Nikon D3 camera I mounted a Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8 lens, setting the focal length to 24mm.  Keeping my subjects near the center of the frame minimized any distortion of them but created an emphasis on the front of the truck which was framed well to the right in the viewfinder.  I made three quick exposures (1/250 sec. @ f9 @ ISO 800) and we were off to the next location.

Back in the studio I opened my RAW file using Nikon’s Capture NX2 software.  I already knew exactly how I was going to tweak this image.  I set a color control point on the truck and used the incredible u-point technology in this software to increase the brightness and saturation of the truck without affecting any of the other elements in the composition.  Sure you could probably spend a lot of time in Photoshop and eventually come up with a similar result but the Nikon Capture NX2 software returned my preconceived bold color vision instantly!

Some final Photoshop image enhancements included some dodging on the front of the bride’s dress, the front of the truck and the ground under the truck followed by the addition of some wispy clouds in the sky using Alien Skin’s Xenofex software.  My total investment in time editing this image was about three minutes!

Photoshop, Lightroom, Aperture…all great software solutions.  But none of them can leverage the power of a Nikon .NEF RAW image like Capture NX2…Period.  I encourage every Nikon RAW shooter out there to add this incredible software product to your arsenal.  You can download a trial version from the Nikon USA web site.

COMPLEX MASKING MADE REALLY, REALLY EASY

Thursday, July 15th, 2010

About a week ago I posted this image on Facebook, along with a link to my web site, where my clients along with their friends & family could view some of their wedding images.  Emails poured in from photographers asking how this capture was made and enhanced.  In this post I am going to share the extraordinary technique, that when coupled with an exceptional software product, enables you to EASILY create dramatic images involving intricate masking.

I captured this image on my Nikon D3 camera equipped with an AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8G ED lens.  My assistant was positioned behind the couple with a radio fired Nikon SB 900 Speedlight.  Looking at the before and after versions of this image side-by-side will help you visualize just how exacting the masking had to be in order to achieve the final result.  Simply burning down the sky in Photoshop was not an option.  To do so would have taken all the detail out of the tops of the trees that lined the path and put them totally into silhouette.  I wanted to hold all of the detail in those trees while allowing a magnificent sunset to show through all the openings around the individual leaves.

The first step in creating this image was to darken the sky in Photoshop to create the breathtaking sunset.  Simply making a levels adjustment of the RGB channels (Image>Adjustments>Levels) and lowering the mid range slider yielded this image.  The sky is amazing…the rest of the image is useless.  Save this image under a different file name.  It will look something like this:

Now comes the fun part which has been made ever so easy by the folks at Vertustech and their unbelievable software offering “Fluid Mask 3“.  I first met Mornee and the crew from Vertus at WPPI in 2008.  Fluid Mask Version 2 was being shown at the trade show and was thrilling everyone that witnessed their incredible demos.  I purchased this software on the spot.  As good as it was then, Version 3 blows it away.  I encourage you to visit the Vertustech web site, download a trial version of the software and experiment with a few images.  There are extensive video tutorials on their web site showing how to use this product.  I’m going to give you a short description of the steps involved but I’ll refer any specific questions on use back to the good folks at Vertus.

Open your original image in Photoshop and choose the Fluid Mask 3 filter from your filter menu (Filter>Vertus>Fluid Mask 3).  Your Photoshop window will close to conserve RAM and a dedicated Fluid Mask workspace will open.  You will not believe how easy and automatic this software works.  Choose the local delete brush and paint a swatch across the sky and Fluid Mask intuitively chooses the areas of the sky that you wish to mask out.  Any small spots it misses can be selected by clicking on those areas with smaller sized local delete brush.  The image now looks something like this:

Next you will Autofill the areas of the image that you wish to keep by choosing Image>Auto-Fill with Keep.  Your workspace will now look something like this:

You must now fine tune your selection mask by using the Blend Exact brush.  Your workspace will now look something like this:

Finally, you’ll tweak the most exacting selection masking choices using the patch tool:

When you are happy with your selection mask click to create your cutout and Fluid Mask generates the most precise automatic mask you’ve ever seen.  This one looked like this:

Copy this cutout to your clipboard, reopen the image you created with the deep sunset and paste the cutout on top of it.  Voila!  An amazing composite with awesome detail in the shadows and a saturated deep rich sunset.

The entire process took me about five or six minutes and I don’t use this software very often.  The pros at Vertus could probably have effected this composite in under two minutes.  With practice you and I could too.

Detailed tutorials on the use of this software product are available on Vertus’ web site.  Any technical questions should be directed to the folks at Vertus.  Give this great product a try and check out the galleries on the Vertus web site to see how other creative imaging professionals are using this product to handle challenging masking projects.

GREAT NEW WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHY BOOK

Monday, June 28th, 2010

Wanted to let you all know about a great new wedding photography book by author, David Pearce and Oliver Cameron Publishing.  Simply entitled “Wedding Photography-A Guide To Posing” this in-depth guide to posing techniques has over 500 images illustrating the use of poses in the context of a wedding. There is a fascinating array of images from around the World, shot by amazing photographers such as Yervant, Chenin Boutwell, Dave & Quin and David Beckstead.

I am honored to have my images and techniques featured in this fine book alongside some of the finest wedding photographers in the world.  An entire chapter in this book has been devoted to illustrating the workflow and Photoshop techniques I use when creating my award-winning images and album designs .  Measuring approximately 7″ x 5” the book has been designed to fit into your camera bag or jacket pocket, so it’s there at your fingertips when you need some inspiration.

The book is available on the web site of Oliver Cameron Publishing.  Click here to order your copy today.

RETOUCHING & ENHANCING THE GLAMOUR HEADSHOT

Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010

In today’s installment I am going to share with you some of my techniques for retouching and enhancing the glamour headshot.  I will preface this post by saying that I have no standard formula for this type of retouching.  I do use certain third party actions and filters along with the proprietary tools within Photoshop itself, but I caution you to not rely solely on any one set of actions or any one filter for all of your images.  For starters, your pictures will wind up looking just like those of everyone else using those actions.  More importantly, you will never grow creatively if your sole purpose is only to get through your image workflow as quickly and efficiently as possible.  Take some time to experiment and explore.  Every image is different and every image requires unique manipulation to make it all that it can be.  Only experimentation and practice will enable you to decide quickly which techniques to employ to dramatically enhance each of your images.

So let’s go through the steps I took to achieve the before and after results you see above.  The first thing I do when I open an image like this is to remove any obvious blemishes and birthmarks.  (I discuss this with my clients beforehand and determine whether they want birthmarks removed or simply softened).  Using the healing brush in Photoshop I can click away these imperfections in seconds. The next thing I do is soften any obvious creases and lighten any dark areas under the subjects eyes.  I use the clone tool in Photoshop, in the “lighten” mode at an opacity of only 10%-15%, cloning a light area next to the area I wish to lighten and gradually lighten it with many clicks of the mouse until the desired result is seen.

I then set my sights on the subject’s eyes.  Using Photoshop’s dodge tool at an opacity of about 12% I carefully lighten the color of my subject’s eyes and lighten the whites of the eyes.  Using the smudge tool I “push” the white of the eye into the corners to remove any red that is showing.  Finally I set the burn tool to a very small diameter and carefully burn the black line around the colored portion of the eye.  These adjustments, when practiced regularly, will take you less than a minute and work wonders to enhance the inherent beauty of your subject’s eyes.

Next I go to work on my subject’s skin texture.  There are countless ways to address this. Both Lightroom and Aperture now include skin softener brushes where you can enhance your subject’s complexion when you open your RAW files for the very first time.  There are also countless third party filters and actions that plug in to Photoshop available to you.  For an extreme close up, like the one we’re working on, I love the Kodak Digital GEM Airbrush Pro filter.  I start by duplicating the main layer and roughly selecting the area where the airbrush filter will be applied.  I feather that selection by approx. 20 pixels and apply the airbrush filter at it’s default settings.  I then erase the filter effect from the subjects eyes and mouth and reduce the opacity of the duplicate layer until I like the look.  The airbrush filter at 100% opacity is too much, thus it’s application on a duplicate layer (with the final adjustment being made via the layer’s opacity setting).  I then flatten the image and move on to some selective burning.

There are numerous ways to burn an image in Photoshop but I have found the burning and vignette tools in The “Kubota Image Tools” action sets to be incredibly efficient while rendering extraordinary results.  I applied two levels of vignettes to this image: first an oval shaped vignette tilted to the same orientation as my subjects head; followed by the edge burner action to darken the edges of the print.  I also burned down the side of my subject’s face to draw the attention of the viewer to my subject’s incredible eyes.  Once again I flatten the image for the final steps.

For the final touch on this image I used the Kubota Action called “Lord of the Rings” to put a wonderful glow on the subject’s skin and to add a diffuse glow to her veil.  Though this action renders a dramatic result you have to be very careful using it as it can block up the shadow areas or blow out highlights in an image.  To avoid this, and to render a true custom effect; I run the action, flatten the image and save the file to my desktop under a temporary name.  I then open the last saved version of my file and copy and paste the temporary file over it.  Using the eraser tool I brush away the “Lord of the Rings” effect from the deep shadow areas in my subject’s hair, from the eyes and from the lips.  I then adjust the opacity of this layer down to where I like the overall effect.  Lastly, I flatten the image again and use the Kubota “Edge Blur – More” action on the right hand side of the image to put a nice blur in the bride’s veil, then I add a touch of sharpening to the bride’s headpiece.

In future posts I will share some other great Photoshop tools and techniques I employ to retouch and enhance my images.  I welcome your requests for solutions to any specific challenges you may be having and will do my best to get you the answers to your questions.  In the meantime fire up Photoshop and explore, experiment and practice.